(R)Evolution in Skin Care through Epigenetics

More than 80 years ago, British scientist Conrad Hal Waddington recognized that there is a kind of link between our genome and the environment. He coined the term “epigenetics” to describe this connection. But it was not until the early 2000s that epigenetics became the focus of international research. Beiersdorf AG, which invested 291 million euros in research & development (> 1,000 employees) in fiscal year 2022 alone, is one of the pioneers in skin epigenetics. Dr. Marc Winnefeld, the Head of the Applied Skin Research Department at the company, and Dr. Elke Grönniger, Laboratory Manager for Skin Aging, explain in the following interview what is behind the patented SKIN AGE CLOCK technology – and what effects epigenetically active substances might have in skin creams.

Marc: Our skin cells “use” more than 15,000 genes. These genes can also be thought of as our individual “skin code” that is read out by the cells as they go about their daily tasks – renewing, repairing, producing collagen etc. As we age, and depending on external factors, blockages appear on the skin code. This phenomenon is also known as “DNA methylation” and leaves an individual epigenetic pattern. These blockages can cause individual genes to be silenced, resulting in “readout errors” of the code, so that the cell can no longer fully run its biological processes. But the good news is that this silencing is reversible, and numerous studies show that positive external influences can reactivate the silenced genes. So, the vital appearance of our skin is, to a great extent, the result of a precise regulation of its epigenetic pattern and its skin code. It is a matter of switching on the positive mechanisms and switching off the skin-aging mechanisms. And this can include, in addition to a healthy lifestyle, epigenetically active ingredients in cosmetics.

Elke: This would indeed be asking a bit too much. We probably cannot fulfill the dream of “eternal youth” by reaching into the cream jar, at least not yet. But I am convinced of one thing: With our epigenetics expertise, we will significantly change the way skin ages. Our aim is not just to compensate for individual deficiencies in skin cells, but to rejuvenate them from the ground up. Beiersdorf has a unique selling proposition in this context: We have developed and patented a biological “age clock” for the skin, our SKIN AGE CLOCK technology. 

Elke: Yes, sure. This algorithm is a real key technology: By reading out the epigenetic pattern, we can determine the biological age of the skin very precisely. What’s more, it enables us to identify and select active ingredients and create product solutions that positively modulate the epigenetic pattern. In fact, this means not only slowing down aging processes, but also turning back the skin’s biological clock, thereby substantially improving the functional capacity of the skin cells again. That way, we can make a significant contribution to “healthy aging” for our consumers. 

Marc: As researchers you need plenty of perseverance and a certain tolerance for frustration. At first glance, one works many hours in vain, but progress can only be made because of failures or setbacks. Once you find a suitable active ingredient that has successfully overcome all of the “hurdles” in various test series, the next big challenge follows: How can this natural substance be stably integrated into a cream base so that, on the one hand, the product develops its full effect over a longer period of time and, on the other hand, a pleasant skin feeling is created after application?

Elke (adds): We can draw on our more than 140 years of expertise in the development of high-quality skin care solutions. This close collaboration between application-oriented research and product development is also what makes our job so exciting. 

Thank you both so much for these fascinating insights.

Find out more on our fascinating Epigenetics research on our website.

_{¹ Grönniger E, Weber B, Heil O, Peters N, Stäb F, et al. (2010) Aging and Chronic Sun Exposure Cause Distinct Epigenetic Changes in Human Skin. PLoS Genet 6(5): e1000971. doi: 10.1371/journal.pgen.1000971}