Hamburg, April 22, 2024 – After nearly ten years of research, a Beiersdorf team has succeeded in unravelling the secret of the skin’s so-called glycation process and has identified an active ingredient to combat sugar-induced skin aging and wrinkle formation. Numerous scientific studies showed many years ago that excessive sugar consumption is associated with various risk factors that contribute to the development of diseases such as obesity, type 2 diabetes, high blood pressure, and cardiovascular and autoimmune diseases. However, it is largely unknown that sugar also has a negative impact on our skin and can cause wrinkles.
Glycation is a naturally occurring but irreversible chemical reaction that occurs when sugar molecules bind to proteins or lipids. This leads to the formation of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs). The longer a protein lives in the skin, the more AGEs it can accumulate, which in turn can lead to inflammation and free radicals. Put simply, sugar weakens the skin’s collagen and elastin fibers, causing them to lose their elasticity and resilience. Along with UV radiation, this process mainly contributes to the formation of wrinkles. In addition, aged skin can not only appear hardened and wrinkled, but also yellowish. This is due to the yellow-brown color of AGEs.
“At Beiersdorf, we have many years of expertise when it comes to decoding the complex processes of the skin on the basis of new findings and technologies. Our Research & Development department has driven innovative developments and set milestones, particularly in the field of skin aging. We have done pioneering work in discovering the importance of Q10 in skin aging and finally making the skin’s own Q10 available as an active ingredient for the first time,“ explains Dr. Gitta Neufang, Corporate Senior Vice President Research & Development and head of more than 1,000 Beiersdorf researchers worldwide. To this day, coenzyme Q10 remains one of the most important active ingredients in the anti-aging field. “After launching the first Q10 skin care products on the mass market under the NIVEA brand more than 25 years ago, we are now taking another decisive step in the anti-aging segment with our new anti-glycation ingredient. We’ve spent around ten years intensively researching glycation in the skin and searching for an effective active ingredient,“ adds Gitta Neufang. ”In total, our team tested around 1,700 active ingredients. Many substances intercept the sugar before it can react; they sacrifice themselves and become saccharified. This effect has to be avoided,“ says Dr Julia Weise, laboratory manager in the Biological Testing department at Beiersdorf. “Ultimately, there was a clear “winning ingredient” called NAHP, which stands for N-Acetyl-L-hydroxyproline. ”NAHP prevents the glycation reaction from taking place in the first place and prevents the formation of AGEs at a higher rate – by up to 68%. Sugar molecules are neutralized before they can bind to proteins and weaken collagen fibers, for example1. This is why we have given our active ingredient NAHP the second name ‘Glycostop.’ We have a patent for its use in cosmetic products and have published several scientific papers on the subject2,“ explains Julia Weise.
As of April 2024, the new anti-aging product NIVEA Q10 Dual Action Serum will be available in stores. This combines GLYCOSTOP™, which is available exclusively from Beiersdorf, with the reliable anti-wrinkle active ingredient Q10 in an innovative formula. These are two highly potent ingredients that achieve a double effect: They prevent skin aging by effectively blocking the glycation of connective tissue proteins such as collagen1; by raising the Q10 content in the skin, it can provide more energy and is better protected against free radicals. The new serum works from day one and is clinically proven to visibly reduce even the deepest wrinkles within two weeks.
At the same time, the product fulfils high sustainability standards. It is free from silicones, mineral oils, and non-biodegradable polymers. The packaging, a high-quality glass pipette, is made from recycled glass that is also recyclable.
1 Tested in vitro
2 Knoblich et al: ”N-Acetylhydroxyproline
– A potent skin anti-aging active preventing advanced glycation end-product
formation in vitro and ex vivo.“ Int. J. Cosmet Sci. 2023,1-10 (N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline - Apotent skin anti-ageing active preventing advanced glycation end-productformation in vitro and ex vivo - PubMed (nih.gov))
